Guides — Undertones

Neutral
undertone

Neither gold nor pink dominates. That is not the absence of an undertone — it is a balance between two.


How to recognise it

Neutral is usually identified by elimination: you run the home tests and none of them gives a clean answer. In daylight, on bare skin, with your hair tied back, you are looking for tests that come back undecided rather than for a cast you can name.

  • — Gold and silver both look fine against your jaw. Neither obviously lifts the face and neither drains it.
  • — Against plain white paper, the skin reads beige. You can see that it is not yellow and not pink, and it does not resolve into either.
  • — The veins at your wrist look blue-green, or a different colour on each arm.
  • — Both warm and cool foundations have looked almost right on you, and slightly off in opposite directions.

One distinction matters before you settle on this answer. Olive skin also fails the home tests, because a green cast satisfies neither the gold question nor the silver one. If your skin looks slightly grey-green in poor light, or foundations turn orange on you after an hour, read the olive page instead: the shopping advice is quite different.

Measure it rather than guess

Neutral is the answer people reach when the tests are inconclusive, which makes it the undertone most often assigned by default rather than actually established. The undertone finder measures where the colour of your cheeks sits on the yellow-to-blue axis and says how confident the reading is, so neutral arrives as a result rather than as a shrug. Free, in your browser, and nothing is uploaded.

Foundation

Look for neutral, beige, natural or a shade code ending in N. More of a range will work on you than on anyone else, and that is the trap as much as the advantage: nothing looks wrong enough to return, so a slightly-off bottle can stay in rotation for a year. Judge it the same way anyone else should — along the jaw, onto the neck, in daylight, and looked at again after twenty minutes.

Two habits pay off here. First, buy the shade either side of your depth in one formula and mix them as the year moves, because depth is the axis that changes on you and temperature is not. Second, use the freedom deliberately: a neutral base takes a warm bronzer and a cool blush at the same time without the face arguing with itself, which is the one thing warm and cool skin cannot easily do.

Blush, bronzer and lips

With temperature settled, choose by depth and by clarity instead. Rose, dusty pink, soft berry, peach-pink and muted coral all sit comfortably. The question that actually decides whether a blush suits you is how much contrast your face carries: low-contrast colouring — hair, skin and eyes close in depth — is overpowered by a bright saturated colour and looks better in a muted one, while high-contrast colouring can carry a clear bright shade that would swamp anyone else.

Bronzer in a true neutral brown is the safest buy anyone can make, and it is available to you. For lips, both blue-based and orange-based reds work; pick by how much of a statement you want rather than by temperature.

Metals

Gold, silver, both together. Mixed metals genuinely work on neutral skin rather than merely being permitted, and rose gold is the easiest of all, since it sits between the two. Eye shadows are open as well: taupe, bronze, soft grey and warm brown all have somewhere to sit.

What is a myth

That neutral is rare, or that it is what a tool says when it cannot decide. Neutral is a real position on the axis: the point where the warm and the cool cancel. The reason it feels like a non-answer is that it is usually delivered as one, after three tests that each came back a shrug.

The second myth is the flattering version: that neutral skin suits everything equally. Temperature has stopped deciding for you, which means depth and clarity now decide instead. A colour can still be too dark, too bright or too dull for your face, and being neutral gives you no protection from any of those.


Undertone is one of seven readings the iPhone app takes from a single selfie, with hydration, oil, texture, redness, face shape and eye colour. Undertone decides which shades come first; the skin readings decide whether a base should be sheer, matte or dewy on you today, and the routine is written for the occasion and the minutes you actually have.

All four undertones, if this one does not sound like you.